Shampoo your hair!
This post is about why you need to shampoo your hair again. The last post was about the Deva Curl Scandal and how it evolved. All people need to read this because the dirty hair movement is DEAD. It’s killing our hair, literally. These were written initially to address Deva and what to do if you have scalp or hair loss concerns, but non curly people, please read too! The shampoo and hair care tips apply to you because all hair needs balance. Most of us have been shampooing less, and that’s not balanced. The whole no shampoo thing is a gross epidemic that needs to STOP with ALL hair. I’ve watched shampoo sales go down, and hair problems go up. This is not a coincidence.
Before you purge all your Deva, their styling products and conditioners are overall safe, but their whole philosophy was built around “shampoo and sulfates are bad”. That’s untrue and the main issue behind the scandal. Not shampooing is something I never agreed with anyways and I tried to educate this, despite lack of brand support. The hair loss issue and the way the Deva has handled is mainly why we’ve decided Deva isn’t for us any longer. It’s just too confusing to clients and quite simply, there are better options now.
“No Shampoo” thought process is no good for hair.
I don’t struggle with curl issues because my hair is more or less straight. Or as Deva calls it, swavy (straight wavy) which is their way of trying to reach hair markets they should’ve left alone. Plus, there has already been substantial evidence way before this that cream cleansers lead to build up. Cheap products and poor shampoo habits also lead to build up, but if you don’t shampoo your hair, buildup will occur at the scalp. If left untreated, it can suffocate hair follicles.
I personally don’t care for cream cleansers because you have to use other products to shampoo your hair. Most clients want one shampoo, but cream cleansers don’t really CLEAN the hair or scalp. When you shampoo your hair, you should see a lather. Not all surfactants (which creates lather) are created the same, so dont can’t skip cleaning hair to preserve moisture for curl. Get moisture through other products and let shampoo do its job, which is to clean dirt, oil and build up off scalp and hair. Remember WEN? It was the first of the cream cleansers to come under fire with a class action lawsuit.
In 2010 Chaz Dean was a stylist who sold his “no shampoo” products on QVC and the same situation happened. Deva curl wanted salons to sell the brand as an endorsement. It became a big player in the hair world, so the backlash is bigger too. We are bringing in other curl lines due to Deva Curl and hair loss risks. One line that I’ve researched encourages shampooing for curls. It is organic and silicone free. We are bringing in a curl and scalp support line called Surface. In the meantime here are some tips on getting over the Deva hump.
Healthy scalps are the foundation to healthy hair.
Curly hair tips and what to do if you’ve been using No Poo.
Stay calm. We’ve had a lot of panic surrounding this issue and Deva isn’t helping by pretending there’s no problem. I’m addressing this in the salon and and curly clients. Product build up is the main concern. For now, make clean hair and scalp health a priority over curls. We’ve been left to offer support to curl clients on our own, but this is a priority. We are dedicating a month to curl care and education. From now on Studio 39 is only using two trusted brands for everything. Loreal Professional and Surface both have curl products and we are doing alot of education. This post is the second of two articles about this topic and I will have more tips and videos to help people transition off Deva.
Stop using No Poo. Cream hair cleansers are not something we ever advise long term. For scalp issues or damaged/dry hair, they may be used short term (in conjunction with other shampoos) to rehab hair. If you’re an avid No Poo user, reality is removing a lathering shampoo long term may lead to other scalp issues. Don’t lean too heavily on one product or one brand for care or advice.
Start using a lathering shampoo. For all clients, we recommend using a gentle shampoo for daily use, especially with curl or color. Sulfates are not all created the same but all sulfates have been demonised in the last few years as unhealthy or bad! It’s simply untrue. Shampoo is not bad! You can watch a video here where I speak about shampoo basics on KCTV5. Sulfates are surfactants that degrease the hair and that’s what you want!
Side note: I feel like I come off snarky in this segment because I kept saying “we” advise, as in we the hair professionals. You can see me hesitate. I realized there are SO many products now, people aren’t buying from salons as much but that’s WHY the public is confused on how to simply shampoo your hair! It was an epiphany moment that a “how to shampoo” topic had become to vast for a 5 minute morning show segment. Choose salon quality products that have gentler, safer surfactants, but shampoo your hair because it’s the first step to hair health.
10 Tips to immediately Get off Deva and address any hair concerns.
- Assess your scalp or book a free consultation. Yeast is the most common issue surrounding Deva because of build up. Build up happens easily with curls. Plus, with dense curls the scalp retains moisture. Our natural body heat creates an environment for yeast. It can present like bumps that look like pimples, also common for hair extension wearers. We are doing free scalp assessments because build up related conditions are the main concern.
- Start shampooing and do it OFTEN and massage your scalp WELL. This is part of shampoo 101. Like a facial, massage stimulates blood flow which promotes circulation. It’s all good for thy little scalp hood, which is also good for hair.
- Get a clarifying shampoo and Malibu treatments. Your hair needs to detox, this applies to everyone. We use Malibu Vitamin C treatments on everyone quarterly who gets color, but it removes build up, so everyone can benefit.
- We are advising 2 different shampoos per client. One that cleans and targets scalp health, and one that is gentle and moisturizing. Alternate the 2 shampoos.
- Rinse, Lather and Repeat. There’s a reason why every shampoo bottle used to say this. Shampoo really well and do it twice.
- Don’t start using cheap products. There will be a lot of Deva curl product refugees, and lots of brands wanting your business. Many curl lines with coconut oil and shea butter “for curls” over proteinized and cause build up, just like Deva. I don’t recommend them. Too much protein is bad and causes more issues. Just use a balanced shampoo recommended by your stylist. All of Loreal Professional shampoos are premium quality and balance moisture and protein.
- Brush, and comb out your hair! This is one those things I don’t like about Deva’s method. Brushing is part of hair health. You may stretch your curls out, but you have to remove the natural shedding! Keep a wet brush or wide tooth comb in your shower and thoroughly remove hair shed accumulation when conditioning your hair. We call this noodling, or raking hair, but it’s simply taking the time to remove hair shed while conditioning. Roll the shed up in a little ball and throw it away, but get it OUT of your hair.
- DRY your hair. Whether you invest in an at home hood dryer or a diffuser, make sure your hair is dry before going to bed. Never go to bed with wet hair! Body heat and moisture are a recipe for yeast and other scalp issues.
- Take your Time. Lots of hair means lots of product and lots of care. There is some personal responsibility at home, so take your time to CARE for your hair. You probably spend time caring for your skin or applying makeup, so give your hair the same level of attention. Natural curl is alot to manage. I always say choose a style that’s on the same level of effort you’re willing to commit to.
- Hair health is about balance. Hair needs protein, moisture, hydration (yes they are different) and needs to be ph balanced, and regularly deep cleansed. You’re not going to achieve all of your hair needs with just a few products. I’m sorry, but when investing in good hair products, you need variety for a good balance. Purchase from a salon. Amazon is not where you should be buying and I could write a dissertation on why. These posts are long enough! 🤪 But switching products up is proven to be good for hair.
Cutting Has Nothing to Do What With Products
For those who get curl cuts, Deva did NOT invent curl cutting. Afro’s and wearing natural texture has been a thing since the 60’s, and so has curl cutting. It came back in style in a BIG way in the last 5 years so Deva parlayed cutting techniques in with product “philosophy”. Curl cutting is not their intellectual property, these techniques have always been around! It was just hard to find a salon that knew how to do them in conjunction with curl care.
Many curly clients told us they experienced inconsistency in Deva cutters, which proves good hair cutting has zero to do with brand certification. Whether you have curly hair or not, good cutting skills have always been a priority at Studio 39. I learned curly cut techniques in the late 90’s from my mentor, and we mentor those same skills here. Brands or stylists claiming they “created” a skill that’s been in our industry for years is nothing new. See a stylist you’re confident with in cutting. Address the products separately, one has nothing to do with the other.
The Dirty Hair Movement is Dead
People in general aren’t shampooing as much in the name of hair “health” and I do not agree with this. I have increased my own routine and I’m seeing immediate results. We are doing more and more to our hair. Naturally your hair care should increase, not decrease.
You wouldn’t skip cleaning your face for a week! The scalp should be treated with equal care. In some instances overly shampooing can stimulate more oil production but if you use good products, you are not damaging your hair by cleaning it. This is a myth that needs to be called out and spoken of more broadly. Plus, your hair only receives the nutrients in conditioner WHEN YOU SHAMPOO. One of our old original salon sayings is healthy hair equals beautiful hair, and obviously a healthy scalp is the foundation. The only way to remove dirt and oil off the scalp is with a shampoo.
Life After Deva
When you stop using deva, your hair will react. It may get dry and frizzy. Hair change when you change products is normal. It will pass! Just be patient and commit to using high quality salon products and increasing your shampoo routine. I don’t want cause alarm to those who have no issues, but I would be negligent if I didn’t say I passionately feel Deva has not handled things professionally. Therefore, I no longer feel its a “professional” brand, so we will no longer carry it.
That was not an easy choice for me, it’s been a part of our salon brand for some time, but I’ve seen some alarming things in the last few weeks. I’ve seen Deva users in the salons and heard real concerns and answered questions that are valid. I could go through a punch list why the statement on the Deva site lacks accountability and is too VAGUE. But it doesn’t matter, just focus on cleaning your hair of any build up and using different things. I’m also ok with clients who DON’T have color doing an apple cider vinegar rinse. It helps remove buildup and prevents yeast, but just do it once! If you have color, just book an appointment with us and we will go over options!